Frequently Asked Questions

We hope that this page will answer your questions- let us know if there is something missing click here- Contact Us

Where is the best place to put resin to cure?

The best place is somewhere level, dry, warm (but not more than 35degrees C) and dust free.

The resin is not setting properly- it is still tacky- what's gone wrong?

You haven't measured out the resin -2 parts by weight- to the hardener- 1 part by weight- accurately enough. Also try putting it somewhere warm and dry to cure.

No, because the resin will burn away with the heat. Resin must be the last technique, after all soldering is done.

If it is a spill on the side of a metal piece, it can be peeled off carefully. If you want to remove all the resin , soak it in paint stripper overnight VERY CAREFULLY. Paint stripper is a dangerous acid so BEWARE.

We recommend them, so that you get an accurate measuring of 2 parts resin to 1 part hardener by weight.

Have you taken the little round silver tray off the top? Are the batteries flat? Also they work best on a level and steady surface.

They will turn themselves off, if you are working slowly as they have a battery saving mechanism. Try measuring out faster or gently tap the weighing plate to 'wake up' the scales.

Resin 1 is more viscous and has an optical brightener to make it appear clearer.It is ideal for adding a final domed layer on pieces as it will keep a good high dome due to the surface tension. Resin 2 is slightly thinner and so is good for casting and enamelling. It will mix with all the other resins as it uses the same hardener.

Please note that Hardener 1 and Hardener 2 are not interchangeable.

Yes, if you use thixotropic resin (also known as gel resin). The other resins will 'slide' off a domed surface.

Resin can be used on many things as long as they are dry. Wood needs to be dry and there is a danger that it might absorb moisture and move. Surfaces need to be grease free before applying resin to make sure it grips. We suggest you use an abrasive on things like polymer clay to give a 'key' for the resin to grip. Glass should be cleaned with an abrasive bathroom cleaner, rinsed and dried with a soft lint free cloth before resin is put on it.

It is best to print out images and text on good quality photo paper and then seal both sides with hairspray. Fabric does not need sealing. Both fabric and paper will need to be glued down before resin is put over it otherwise they will float to the surface.

Pass a gentle flame over the surface of unset resin - the bubbles will rise to the top and pop.

Coat the resin with another thin layer of resin and the thumbprint will disappear.

Yes, all the resins are intermixable. The colour pastes can also be mixed rather like paint can be mixed, to get different colours.

Let a layer of resin set and then add the object. Build up the resin in layers.

The 30mm x 40mm pendant will need 3gms of resin mix- that is 2gms of resin and 1 gm of hardener.

No- follow the instructions about keeping the mould clean and you won't need a release agent.

Add another thin layer of clear resin over the top. Make sure that you don't spray a finished piece with chemicals such as hairspray or perfume which may attack the finish of resin.

Make sure the hardener tin or bottle is kept sealed and that the lids are cleaned after use. Sunlight affects the hardener and turns it yellow. Don't cure the resin at too high a temperature. Measure the resin (2 parts) and the hardener (1 part) accurately.

Use an epoxy glue. Never, ever use Super Glue.

They are not necessary when mixing the resin - wear a barrier cream to protect your skin. However, if you use an abrasive paper or drill resin, wear a mask to avoid breathing resin dust.

It is for cleaning tools and moulds that have a build up of resin. It can be diluted 50/50 with water.

This is a complex process and we suggest you attend one of Clare's classes.